Brocade, Jacquard, Damask
Let's talk fancy fabric.
I bought a fabulous brocade dress from a vintage sale yesterday. The fabric is a deep raspberry with gold chrysanthemums that appear to be embroidered. The metallic embroidery effect is the defining characteristic of brocade, but it is actually part of the weave of the fabric. Brocade is usually made of silk threads in rich colors with metallic accents with Chinese, Indian, or Persian floral motifs. Because the raised, metallic patterning is a supplemental weft, meaning it isn’t part of the fabric’s structural weave, brocade isn’t reversible—the pattern sits on top of the weave.
You know what is reversible? Damask, which has its patterning woven into the structural weave of the textile. Where brocade is silk, damask is satin. So, damask will have a glossy overall texture and is more flexible. Brocade was invented in ancient China as silk production expanded, but damask originated in Damascus, Syria in the Middle Ages. Brocade is stiff, but damask is thicker and heavier, comprised of several layers of thread. Damask doesn’t have a standard motif, but it does feature a pattern of some kind.
Both brocade and damask are examples of jacquard. When referring to fabric, jacquard denotes a variegated pattern in a textile’s weave. The term comes from the type of loom these patterned fabrics are woven upon: The Jacquard machine.
Unless you’re a table or a window, odds are you aren’t wearing much damask these days. Brocade is still easy to find in vintage and designer clothes, but the downside of of the fabric is that it doesn’t give at all, so make sure the fit of your brocade garment allows for at least a some breathing/eating/merrymaking.
I’ll be practicing taking shallow breaths so I can wear this raspberry beauty to a wedding in October.
Until next week,
Elizabeth
This newsletter is just one facet of Zhuzh, my platform dedicated to conscious consumption and making space for delight. I offer secondhand-and-vintage-based wardrobe and interior styling services, art curation, and super chill life coaching. Keep up with me on Instagram and learn more at www.zhuzhlife.com.